Vallamkali

Onam is probably the biggest festival of the Malayais. Post harvest, when the spirits are high and expectations of the prosperity the year's harvest is to bring lighten the hearts, the people of Kerala welcome King Mahabali to their land and celebrate the New Year. The Onam festivities go on for about 10 days. The 5th day is the highlight of the entire festival. On Anizham, the fifth day, a boat race or a rowing competition is held all over Kerala.

Vallamkali or the Snake Boat Race is a spectacular event held all over Kerala to commemorate the fifth day of the Onam festival. People come from all parts of the world, not only India to witness this competitive race. Vallamkali is one of the few age old traditions of Kerala which has been gaining popularity instead of dying meekly, with the growth of the new urbanization trends. The Vallamkali held at places like Aranmula on the Pamba River (Kuttanad), Papiyad (near Kollam), and Thayathangadi (near Kottayam) are the favorites for the tourists and sport enthusiasts.

Among the many dignitaries who have witnessed the event was the 1st prime minister of the country, Pandit Jawahar Lal Nehru. Impressed by this colorful and enthusiastic sport, he instituted an award for the victors of the race and thus this competition is now called Nehru Trophy Boat Race.

The Vallamkali at Aranmulla is the most famous among these. Aranmulla is famous for its Krishna temple where the Lord is depicted as the friend, philosopher and guide of Arjuna, the Pandava middle-brother. The beautiful river Pamba flows beside this temple and it is here that the famed Snake Boat Race is held.

The Origin:
Legend has it that a pious Namboodiri was in the habit of feeding an impoverished urchin everyday. One day the Brahmin was saddened as no one turned up to receive his offering. Then the Lord Krishna himself came up to receive his food in the form of a small boy. The Brahmin was gladdened by the knowledge of the Lord’s grace and made it a practice to send 51 measures of rice and all the groceries and provisions to prepare a traditional feast (Sadya) to the temple every year. One such year, mischief makers from a rival village advanced, intent on seizing the Brahmin’s boat (Thiruvonachilavu Thoni) which held the temple’s offerings. As he approached them, his own villagers came to the rescue in Snake boats and escorted him safely to the temple. Since then every year 48 boats accompanied the Namboodiri’s boats. It is to remember and cherish this rescue that the boat race is held every year in Aranmulla.

There is another legend attached to this race also. A Palliodam is a beautiful boat, ornamentally crafted, used by royalty. It is believed that once a chieftain’s food laden Palliodam refused to move on having taken pity on the plight of a family’s hunger and impoverishment. Only when the woman and her children were fed the festive fare, a Sadya did the vessel consent to move. In memory of the boat’s benevolence, the victorious snake boat is accorded the privilege to accompany a Palliodam from Katoormana. Lighted torches are stuck to the boat and drums played and chonches blown.

The Snake Boat:
The Vallamkali is also known as Snake Boat race due to the boats that enter the main event in the race. These boats are called Chundan Vallams. These are narrow canoe like boats but unlike the canoe are about 100 feet long and can seat 150 men. These boats are specially constructed by master carpenters out of Anjili wood and coir. On some occasions Teak Wood is also used instead of Anjili. One end of the boat is fashioned to look like a serpent's flared hood. Hence the name, Snake Boat. Hard labor, patience and meticulous work are put into crafting these boats. The villagers ascribe their village boat divine powers and hence only the men folk are allowed to touch it and that too after removing their footwear, lest they defile it.

A carpenter is hired every year to mend the minor damages to the boat and to look after its general maintenance. The boats are painted with fish oil a mixture of carbon and eggs. This keeps the wood strong, termite free and helps in increasing the boat speed.

A few days before the race begins the Snake-head ends f the boats are painted with a fringe of gold and the flag is hoisted on the boats mast. Colorful umbrellas signifying the social stature of the owners are stuck on the boat. It is indeed a thrilling sight as about 26 of these boats set sail at the same time.

Some other types of boats also participate in events of the Vallam Kali. These are called Churulan Vallam, Iruttukuthy Vallam, Odi Vallam, Veppu Vallam (Vaipu Vallam), Vadakkanody Vallam, Kochu Vallam.

The Event at Aranmulla:
The day before the race the deity's idol is taken out in a grand procession among decked up children. On the morning of the race the participating boats with the oarsmen, singers and helmsmen aboard gather outside the temple in salutation. That afternoon the race is held.

The race is held on the River Pamba over a stretch of about 40 kms. There are 150 men aboard each boat and 125 of them are oarsmen. The rest are singers. All these men wear white dhotis and white turbans. As the race begins, the oarsmen row in perfect sync. The singers sing special songs for the occasion called Vanchipattu. These songs are based on beats which coincide with the splash caused by the oar cutting through the water. The huge crowds on the banks cheer fervidly as the boats start moving. All in all, it is a heart warming sight.

Besides Aranmulla, boat races are organized all over Kerala on this day. Some of the other famous races are:

• Nehru Trophy Boat Race held on the Punnamuda Backwaters of Alappuzha dist.
• Champakulam Moolam Boat Race
• Payippad Jalotsavam
• Indira Gandhi Boat Race, at Ernakulam Lake.