Phulkari is a traditional pattern of weaving in Punjab. It is popular with the women of Punjab from the15 th century. Among the Art and Craft of Punjab, Phulkari is the most popular handiwork in India and abroad. Phulkari is mainly associated with flower embroidery.
Phulkari is associated with embroidering over the dupattas and shawls. It is an intricate needle work. Often the base cloth is covered entirely which is known as Bagh meaning garden of flower. It mainly depends on the size of the stitching. The smaller the stitches, the Phulkari becomes finer and better. But the art of Phulkari is not very complicated. The needle work gives rise to the different motifs and design on the piece of cloth. In the earlier days, the threads used for embroidery were of silk.
The bright colors that are generally used for Phulkari are red, orange, blue, green, crimson etc. For the Phulkari of Punjab, only one single strand is being used at a time. The stitches in the Phulkari are done vertically, horizontally and even diagonally to create a special effect of light and shade.
The designs of the Phulkari of Punjab vary from one village to another. The embroidery work is given descriptive names of their own. The sainchi Phulkari are much in demand and it depicts the scenes from the village life. The skill and emotions of the rural girls got associated with this embroidery work. Phulkari often became a part of the bridal trousseau.
The Phulkari works are used in various occasions like festivals, marriages, religious ceremonies in Punjab. It was made only for the personal usage by the rural women. But it has been so much in demand that it is also exported to Middle East.
