PM Narendra Modi recently gave the Prime Minister of Italy a “Patan Patola” scarf at the G20 summit. A double ikat cloth called patola is often fashioned from silk in Patan (North Gujarat). Before the fabric is woven, the warp or weft is tie-dyed using the ikat technique. In 2013, it was given a Geographical Indication (GI) designation. The work of weaving pure silk patan began in the 11th century and was a tremendous success.
The unusual appearance is a byproduct of the “bandhani” staining or weave method, administered to the warp threads separately before stitching. This approach is difficult and complex. The colours and designs on the Patola fabrics are equally vibrant on both sides. Patola is woven on crude, manually operated harness looms made of rosewood and bamboo strips. The weaving frame is angled. The procedure is labour- and time-intensive and necessitates a high level of skill and knowledge. One six-yard saree requires three to four months to develop a tie-dye design on the warp and weft threads.
While owning and donning a patola is a point of pride, the cloth has mostly stayed beyond reach for the average person due to its high cost. The Salvi family from Patan is one of the foremost exponents of this craft. The Rajkot Patola is a widely worn and used cloth material woven on flat looms. Indonesia was the leading buyer of patolas before World War II.
History of Patan Patola
The plural version of the patolu, patola, is derived from the Sanskrit word “pattakulla”. However, it is said that patan cloth was discovered in Gujarat, and ancient texts prove this. Women wear this fabric during ceremonies and special occasions in the religious text Narasimha Purana.
Pattakulla, its Gujarati counterpart, only occurred after the 11th century. During the reign of the Solanki empire, the patan cloth became a bustling product in the market for Salvis. The patan sarees became a symbol of idealism and beauty among the women of that era. To get great demand and supply for patan material and products, the weavers from Karnataka made a massive migration towards Gujarat’s Solanki empire. As per the records, it was due to King Kumarpala the Patan cloth received much-awaited prosperity and fame.
What distinguishes the various varieties of patola, and what makes them unique?
Geometric patterns and abstract shapes are frequently used to symbolise patolas. Popular patterns include those with elephants, human figures, Kalash, flowers, Shikhar, paan, and parrots, and those that drew inspiration from Gujarati architecture. The patan cloth is available in splendid patterns of geometric designs, leaves, and illustrations of animals like elephants, women and men are also demonstrated in the design patterns of the patan patola sarees.
