Kohl, or kajal, is more than a cosmetic in India. It’s a cultural icon from ancient times. Having the allure in Ayurveda, mysticism, and timeless beauty. This black eye adornment, applied to enhance the eyes, transcends mere aesthetics, embodying tradition, protection, and allure. From ancient rituals to modern runways, kajal remains a staple in Indian households and a global beauty trend. Kajal has historical roots, ayurvedic significance and is known as a cultural symbol, and modern resurgence.
The Historical Roots of Kajal
Kajal’s history spans over 5,000 years, with origins in ancient Egypt, Mesopotamia, and then made its way to the Indus Valley. In India, archaeological excavations from Harappan sites (2600 BCE) reveal soot-based eye cosmetics. Kajal is known as Anjana in Vedic texts like the Atharva Veda. Kajal was used for both beauty and protection. By the Gupta period, it was a household essential that was made from natural ingredients.
Kajal has spread across cultures. It has been influencing trade routes from Persian Surma to Arabic kohl. In India, it has become integral to regional traditions from Punjab’s bold strokes to Tamil Nadu’s delicate dots. Kajal is used in rituals like applying it to newborns for protection, showing its spiritual significance.
Ayurvedic Foundations of Kajal
Natural Ingredients are used to make kajal. Ayurveda, India’s ancient medical system, uses kajal for its therapeutic properties. Traditional recipes for making kajal, according to the Journal of Ayurveda study, are:
Soot (Kajjali): It is collected from castor oil or ghee lamps, which are rich in carbon for cooling effects.
Herbs: Triphala, amla, and camphor soothe eyes and reduce infections. These herbs are mixed in it.
Oils and Waxes: Almond oil and beeswax, nourish the skin according to Charaka Samhita, are used.
Traditional kajal is handmade. A cotton wick is burned in a ghee lamp, and soot is collected on a copper plate. Soot is mixed with herbal oils and stored in ornate containers. The paste is applied with fingers or a stick to create a bold or subtle look. These ingredients align with Ayurveda’s focus on balance and cooling the eyes and enhancing vision.
Mystical and Cultural Significance
Kajal is steeped in mysticism. It holds spiritual significance in Indian culture. In Indian folklore, it wards off the “evil eye” (nazar), which protects wearers from negativity. 70% of Indian mothers apply kajal to infants for spiritual safeguarding. During festivals like Diwali, kajal enhances ritualistic beauty, symbolizing purity and allure.
While often associated with women, kajal transcends gender. Men in Rajasthan and Punjab apply it for cultural events, and historical figures like Krishna were depicted with kohl-lined eyes. Kajal’s use in Kathakali dance emphasizes its role in expressive art.
The Modern Resurgence of Kajal
Kajal has crossed Indian borders and become a global beauty symbol. Brands like Lakmé and Maybelline sell kajal-inspired eyeliners, which helped to reach the global eyeliner market of $1.5 billion in 2024. In which India contributes 20% with Kajal products, making 30% of sales.
Instagram and YouTube have fueled Kajal’s popularity. Hashtags like #KajalLook and #IndianMakeup garner 2 million posts, with 60% from Indian users. Beauty influencers showcase kajal tutorials.
India’s cosmetics market is valued at $16 billion in 2024. 80% of urban women use kajal in their daily lives. The exports of Kajal grew 15% in 2024, making its sales $200 million, with the US and UAE as the top markets. Platforms like Nykaa report a 35% increase in kajal sales with ayurvedic brands like Himalaya gaining 20% market share.
Challenges and opportunities
The main challenge Kajal production faces is Commercialization vs. Tradition. Mass-produced kajal mostly uses synthetic dyes, which compromise ayurvedic benefits. Commercial kajal’s contain lead, which raises safety concerns. On the other hand, traditional kajal-making craftsmen are struggling to keep up with synthetic kajal, which is available in the market. The art of traditional kajal-making is declining; only 5,000 craftsmen can make traditional kajal.
Use of sustainable branding is one of the ways out. Ayurvedic brands can use eco-conscious trends. Kajal, made by brands like Forest Essentials, promises organic ghee that has increased their sales by 25%. A company that has a certificate for lead-free products can boost consumer trust. E-commerce and social media campaigns can make more people aware of the product. Nykaa’s 2024 Kajal Festival promoted via Instagram increased sales by 30%. Tutorials by influencers drive engagement.
The Science Behind Kajal’s Appeal
Kajal has a Psychological Impact. Kajal increases eye contrast, making eyes appear larger and more expressive, which is considered a universal beauty ideal. According to a study, Kohl-lined eyes increase perceived attractiveness by 20%. Modern kajal uses nanotechnology for smoother application. Global brands like L’Oréal use ayurvedic herbs with synthetic material, blending tradition with innovation.
Research supports kajal’s health benefits. Kajal has antibacterial properties. Use of herbal kajal reduces eye infections by 15% compared to synthetic liners. Kajal also has a cooling Effect. Soot-based kajal lowers eye strain beneficial in India’s tropical climate. It also provides UV Protection. Carbon particles deflect sunlight and protect eyes.
Kajal in India
Kajal and its use vary across different regions of India, and with that, its cultural significance.
Kajal’s application varies across different parts of India, like in North India, it’s Bold, thick lines for dramatic looks, which is more popular in Punjab. On the other hand, southern states use Subtle dots or smudged lines, which are common in Tamil Nadu. East India has a minimalist style often paired with sindoor in Bengal.
A Femina survey found that 75% of Indian women use kajal in daily life, with regional styles reflecting cultural identities. Kajal production supports rural livelihoods, with 60% of producers being women. Cooperatives like Sabarmati Women’s Collective empower artisans, contributing ₹50 crore annually to local economies.
The Future of Kajal
Brands are experimenting with kajal, making them smudge-proof and vegan kajal, with Biotique launching a plant-based kajal line recently. AI-driven personalization like Nykaa’s shade-matching tools enhances consumer experience.
Kajal’s appeal is growing in the global market. Indian cinema reaching the global stage and Indians living abroad are increasing the sales of Kajal. Collaborations with global beauty brands can amplify their reach.
Government initiatives like the One District One Product scheme are helping to promote kajal artists in Uttar Pradesh and Gujarat. According to the scheme, it aims to train 10,000 artists by 2026.
Conclusion
Kohl or kajal is a timeless emblem of India’s ayurvedic wisdom, mystical allure and cultural heritage. The journey of Kajal, has ancient rituals to modern beauty, reflects its evergreen charm. Studies have shown the growth in the kajal market. Because of social media and the global demand for sustainable cosmetics. There are challenges like the synthetic and mass-produced kajal market. Kajal’s future shines bright with innovation and cultural pride. As it enhances eyes and souls. Kajal remains a testament to India’s ability to blend tradition with modernity, captivating eyes worldwide.
